A Night in the Ice Lake Basin

“Whatcha doin’?” I asked my cousin Paul, as I sat down by the fire.

“Cookin’ socks,” he replied.

Some people roast marshmallows, or cook hot dogs, but Paul was holding our socks over the fire, cooking socks, in attempt to dry them. The trek up to the Ice Lakes had involved lots of snow getting into our boots. Paul had a found a tree branch laying around which curved in such a manner that it was perfect for laying our socks across and holding over the fire.DSC05587

Everyone had volunteered their socks including myself. We also set our boots next to the fire to try and dry them. Sadly Mary’s boots were a little too close and got singed.

It was early evening, but the temperature had already dropped greatly. We were all in our hoodies and jackets and had our bare feet propped up against rocks next to the fire, inviting the soothing heat to keep them warm.  

Paul handed off the sock roasting responsibility to me and went in search of more wood for the fire. It was a very hungry fire, burning things up quickly. I found a place to prop up the sock drying branch so I could be hands free.

DSC05592We all had contributed to finding firewood and kindling, but Paul won the prize for this.  There was a pattern. He’d disappear. We would carry on conversation, and, after a while, he would return with arms full of wood and kindling. At one point I remember we all laughed. Paul had found an enormous piece of tree trunk and was carrying it to camp over his head, seemingly effortlessly, like an experienced woodsman. He had a grin on his face seeping from his sense of personal accomplishment,  I would assume. The question on all our minds was where did he find that, and how did he resolve to lift it?

“That’s so Paul,” Jonathan commented.

There had clearly been a place set up to have a fire prior to our arrival. Paul had taken the lead in renovating the area. He found logs and rocks and assembled them to create a bench with a backrest and armrests. We had our own living room set. Eventually everyone discovered they could put rocks close to the fire to heat them up and then remove them from the fires edge to warm their feet. I initially had the best seat. I was tucked in the corner of the constructed bench, sitting on the log, my back resting against a broken piece of timber, and my feet on a smooth rock warmed to the perfect temperature by the fire. In due time I rotated out from my comfortable corner to let someone else enjoy the prime sitting spot.

There was still quite a bit of day left, but no one had plans to leave the fire. The air around us was just too cold and wet, and some of us were sore from the hikes of carrying all our supplies for camping up the mountains and then trekking up snow to the Ice Lakes.

As we sat there poking around the fire a Marmot probably thirty feet away would crawl up out of its burrow, take a few steps forward, shout at us, and then run back into his hole. It happened a few times. Sometimes he wouldn’t make a noise but would just watch us. He was probably trying to figure out what we were and what we were doing here.

Jonathan had brought some sort of soup to cook by the fire for himself, but the rest of us just snacked on dry goods. Jonathan also heated a Clif Bar over the fire, which is a tactic I’ve now adopted. The bars become pleasantly soft and warm. However, they do absorb really well a smoky flavor which takes some getting used to.

DSC05597After we were by the fire for many hours, the conversation died down, and I decided to open a round of Would You Rather, something I learned from my younger brother, Timothy. You go around in a circle taking turns, posing ridiculous questions like “Would you rather jump out of an airplane or plummet down Yosemite Falls?”

When night had fallen and the fire turned to glowing embers, we checked into our tents for the night. I was unprepared, not knowing this would be the coldest night of my existence.

I had fallen asleep okay, but in the middle of the night I awoke freezing. I was very uncomfortable. I had only packed one sleeping bag, a small lightweight one that’s packaging stated it was good for temperatures down to forty degrees. It was for sure below forty degrees. I would assume the temperature had plummeted below freezing. The sweatshirt I was wearing and my lightweight sleeping bag was not enough. I should have known better. On top of that, my head had no warmth to sink into. I had only brought my very small trunk pillow which seemed to absorb the cool air. And here I was in Kelty, my lightweight and airy tent. I should have been more prepared, but, aside from the Rocky Mountains, I had spent weeks in the desert and temperatures like this were unimaginable.

There were a couple things I could do. First, I took the nylon bag which the sleeping bag is stored in and I put it over my head, trying to capture the heat of my breath. Secondly, I put my hands in my pants, for they were growing numb. There was a third option too. I could climb into another tent, but there were questions on my mind:, First, would that be socially acceptable? Even if it’s not, isn’t it okay in dire situations like this? Is this an emergency? Will I be ok? Which tent would be the less awkward one to climb into, the tent with my Aunt Mary and Jonathan or the tent with Paul and Ines? I unzipped my tent and looked outside contemplating going over to one of their tents. I couldn’t pull myself to do it. I’ll suffer, I concluded. So with my head in a bag and my hands in my pants, I slept on and off, waking up cold and uncomfortable, and reminding myself that the night will end. Warmth will come in the morning. Never before was I more glad for the morning’s arrival.

DSC05598That morning we didn’t stay long in the basin. We were all cold and hungry. As the others were slowly waking up and putting themselves together, I walked around camp, admiring the expanse of the basin waking up. It was beautiful. The sun was golden and caused everything that was wet and frozen to shimmer in its light. Paul and Ines also walked around and sat together on a fallen tree trunk, looking out into the basin. No one said anything. I suppose we were all taking in the awe of our surroundings and trying to thaw out. I walked out from the shade to feel the slightest bit of warmth falling from the sun. It wasn’t much, but I’d take it.

I remember when we were packing up, Jonathan was shaking off the morning due from his tent, neatly folding it, making sure every corner matched. I, on the other hand, am much more haphazard when packing my tent. I live in the fine line between the type A and type B personalities. Tent packing, just not on the top of my priorities. To each his own, and I should learn to keep better care of some of my things.

When we were all packed up, we hiked back across the basin, crossed over the streams and rivers, down the forests and prairies, and made it back to the car. I talked with Ines a lot on the hike down. I didn’t know her very well. I had only met her briefly in a couple of family occasions. I was very pleased to get to know her. We got to talking about life in Germany, and I was extended the offer to come visit.

Back at the cars, there was talk by my cousins of bathing in the river, but I knew I didn’t have much time to spare and needed to get on my way. My goal was to drive 7 hours to the western side of Utah, to Yuba Lake State Park. Aunt Mary and my cousins would continue their adventure on to Arches National Park. I brought out my map and spread it across the top of my car and explained some of the features worth seeing, and recommended a stop at the Moab diner.

Then it was time to part ways. It was sad, to leave, but I felt so thankful for the experiences shared together. From Mesa Verde to the Ice Lakes, the adventures with this bunch are truly unique and special. They will last with me forever.

Read the next entry, “Assaulted at Yuba Lake,” here:

https://joshthehodge.wordpress.com/2018/03/14/assaulted-at-yuba-lake/

Read the previous entry “When Life’s Path is Frozen Over,” here:

https://joshthehodge.wordpress.com/2018/03/10/when-lifes-path-is-frozen-over/

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When Life’s Path is Frozen Over

It was the middle of the day and the moment had come. It was time to temporarily part from our camp in the San Juan Mountains and ascend to the Ice Lakes.

Jonathan had awoke from his nap. The rest of us were fully oriented to our camp surroundings, and we were ready for the next leg of our adventure.  The plan was to ascend, enjoy the stunning beauty, and come back down to camp later and enjoy a fire and an evening in the basin.

We knew that in the forecast rain was very likely, and beyond the basin, in the distance, a dark ominous sky grew. We knew we had no time to spare. We wanted to get to the Ice Lakes before the storm, for there is no comfort found in being on top of a mountain in the midst of lightning.

The trail up to the Ice Lakes was right behind our camp. It was very steep most of the time, meandering up the mountainside. Much of it was covered in layers of snow, and so the journey was largely a trek on top snowpack. It required us all to sort of hunch over to balance our weight and maintain stance on the mountain.

I had my handy trekking pole with me to dig into the snow and pull myself forward. I decided to lend it to Aunt Mary. She would have been fine without it, but I thought she could use it more than myself. She was very grateful. When I hike in a group I very much have a team mineset. We are like one unit or one creature, and so it’s important to support each other to reach the goal.

At times there was question of which way to go, because we could not locate the path in the midst of all the snow. Recollecting this sparks another parallel to life. I feel that there are definite right answers to many things in life, very much so in a moral sense. In certain situations there are certain decisions which are moral and just that need to be made. These are the pathways in life which lead to certain outcomes and chains of events, but life is full of noise, of opinions, of differing views, of distractions, of complications, and sometimes these clear and definite trails become covered in our perceptions. We can’t find them, and we search and search our lives for meaning, trying to find our way. However, sometime we search life with a cold heart, and when a heart stays cold, the ice doesn’t melt and there’s little to no chance of finding the path. If we break open our hearts and allow the healing power God to enter in and his compassion to influence our lives, it’s easier for the snow to melt and for us find our ways

Other times, despite our closeness to God, and seeking his direction,  the unwanted storms of life will not cease, our paths for major life decisions are not clear. It’s like when a canyon forms, not by choice but by the forces around us. It’s in these moments when we need to realize that we don’t always need to see the path. The spirit of God leads us over the snowpack when the trail is nowhere to be seen. That spirit can move us forward, when confusion is so apparent in the world around us. He guides our moral compass. But it’s a matter of trust, a matter of surrendering fear, a matter of realizing you may not see where you are going, but you are not lost.

I think that is so true about my life. Some people have definite five years plans, and ten year plans, and they know exactly where they are going and have a plan on how to get there. There’s nothing wrong with that. I believe setting goals and having a vision  is very important, but I’ve lived enough life to know that too much faith and hope in one’s own plans, and especially on one’s method to get there, can lead to major disappointments. Personally, I feel like much of my life is walking on top snowpack. I continue day by day seeking direction, making plans, but surrendering those plans to God. Sometimes the snow melts around me and direction becomes clear, and in those moments I savor scenery and enjoy it. Ecclesiastes 7:14 reminds us, “When times are good, enjoy them, but when times are bad, consider this: God has made one day as well as the other, and man never knows what the future may bring.”

More often in life, storms leave snowpack, and I continue with trust and confidence knowing that the Spirit of God leads me. I may not always know where I am going, but I am certainly not lost.

In both a spiritual and physical sense, I find it very rare to feel lost in life. It’s an understanding that nowhere in this world is outside the realm of God’s power. He is always with me. Even in the most daunting and foreign places are still within God’s dominion. Also, spiritually and emotionally, nothing escapes God’s vigilance and intervention. It reminds me of one of my favorite yet simplest bible verses, Psalm 37:4, “The angel of the Lord encamps around those who fear him and delivers them.” This especially sticks out to me, because I know what it means to “encamp”. It’s traveling from one place to another, not staying put, but finding residence in temporary places, and so the verse doesn’t say the Angel of the Lord sets up permanent residence at our mailing address, it says the Angel of the Lord “encamps”- travels with us. There is nowhere I can go in this life to fall out of the intervention of God’s protection. Even in the darkest canyons, the Angel of the Lord will set up camp with us. On our way out of the canyon, up into our mountains, when the storm rolls in and the snow covers the trail, the Angel of the Lord is there to protect us and God’s Spirit is there to lead. How could I possibly ever be lost when the divine presence of God is with me?

That is something to celebrate and put us at ease. But it’s all a choice. Some people choose to live their lives in canyons alone. They are unwilling to acknowledge how they’ve gotten there, and in their pride they attempt mountains covered in snow with no guide. As for me, I’d be completely lost and I would not have true peace, and so I’ve made another choice.

True peace also doesn’t mean you never have or concerns or acute worry. These things can be mechanisms to spur intelligent thinking and action, like Aunt Mary warning us “We need to turn around” as she turned to look at the deep dark ominous sky growing towards us. We were all spread out. Mary was at the end of the pack, Jonathan and I were in the middle, and Paul and Ines were somewhere up above already nearing the Ice Lakes. Mary called out numerous times with concern in her voice. Not wild and unchained fear, but intellect calling out as a mother’s need to protect her family. I had paused a couple of times and wondered if we should indeed turn around, but despite her hesitation, Mary proceeded forward. We came up over a ridge and reached the Ice Lakes. It was named very appropriately, because it was all frozen over. Snow and ice was everywhere. A stream of turquoise spread across where the water was slightly warmer, and the very peak of the mountain stood up behind it covered in snow except for a few stripes of dark exposed rock. Although silly as it may sound, the best way to describe it is that It looked like were were among a giant mass of chocolate chip ice cream.

Despite snow on ground all around, the air was not particularly cold. We were all in shorts, and I was even in a tank top. In the photos it looks a little odd. It doesn’t appear to make sense. In such an environment, it seems like we should have been bundled up to the extreme.

We took some photos together, but didn’t stay long. The storm behind did look like it was approaching determinedly.

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Cousin Paul sliding down to the basin.

On our descent, Paul went sliding down on a portion of the snowy mountain side. It was a lot quicker and faster going down. We made it back to our camp in the basin safely.

 

Except for a light sprinkling, a storm never came, but the temperature changed for sure,  and it became very cold. We would spend the rest of the day and evening huddled around a fire, drying our wet socks, and keeping warm.

DSC05572
Aunt Mary looking into the storm

Read the next entry, “A Night in the Ice Lake Basin,” here:

https://joshthehodge.wordpress.com/2018/03/12/a-night-in-the-ice-lake-basin/

Read the previous entry “Backpacking in the San Juan Mountains,” here:

https://joshthehodge.wordpress.com/2018/03/10/backpacking-in-the-san-juan-mountains/

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Backpacking in the San Juan Mountains

The dirt road we were traveling on was bumpy, rattling my little rental car and swinging my National Park pass hangtag side to side like a violent pendulum. It was a prime example of a washboard road, and the grooves on this road might as well have been paved.  My cousin Jonathan and I were in this car trailing Paul who was in another, leading the way with Mary and Ines.

We were on our way to the trailhead which would guide our adventure up into the San Juan Mountains where we would camp and visit the Ice Lakes. I had only a vague idea of what to expect, because I hadn’t even seen photographs of this place. I was trusting my cousin, Paul, with this adventure. After all, since he’d come all the way from Germany for a visit, and this hike was on his list of things to do, it must have been well researched.

We came to a small parking area nestled down in a valley with a rushing river and a footbridge on one side and prairie on the other. Elsewhere, dark pines stood. We were in an area managed by the National Forest Service. There were a few other cars, but the place was by no means busy. We quickly geared up, took a group photo, and were on our way.DSC05455

The morning was absolutely beautiful. The sky was pure blue, the sun bright and cheerful. Vibrant colors were painted all around- the green of the pine and prairie, the orange and greys of the Colorado rock, the white of the leftover snow in the high reaches, and even the bright yellowness of Paul’s neon shirt. The sun was at such a position, and the air so clear, that every wrinkle and crack of rock was exposed, every tree top was distinguishable, and the dance of every rustling leaf was visible. The landscape was in the highest of definition, fully awake and alive.DSC05465

The hike was about two miles. The whole thing was an incline, but it wasn’t terribly steep, There was a series of switchbacks along the ascent, which lessened the immediate incline. The trail by nature was not difficult, but my backpack was by no means light. I was carrying a lot of water and it weighed me down, and so it made this hike pretty strenuous. I’ve thought back to this hike in other challenging backpacking situations. I remind myself,  “If I can hike up the San Juan Mountains with that backpack, I can certainly do this.”

The hike took us on a very narrow path into a thick pine forest with lots of growth on the forest floor. At one point, near the beginning of our journey, we came to a rushing stream. We had to cross it by our own creativity. Ines took off her shoes, carefully placing her feet on stones to cross. I kept my waterproof boots on and trudged through the water. Paul leaped over. Mary and Jonathan found their own ways.DSC05460

We came to a second wilder, more intense, crossing later on. Two logs had been placed across the rushing water, but with nothing to hold onto, it became a careful balancing act. We found two large thin pieces of tree limbs that Mary held onto on either side. She stuck them down into the rush of the water, like trekking poles, to help keep balance and cross over.  

As we ascended the mountains, we came to a hybrid aspen and pine forest which let out into a wild grass prairie on the mountain side. It reminded me of my journey up the mountain in Manti Lasal.

About halfway up our ascent, we came to a waterfall just off to the side of the trail. It was loud and dropped very sharply. We were able to stand right next to it.  Paul had a Go-Pro camera on a stick, we took a group photo. It was also around this time that Jonathan discovered that he left a camera lens or a battery back in my car. He chose to go down to retrieve it. He ran, and it didn’t take long for him to catch back up with us, but after the extra mileage, he was tired.

We found a spot to take a short break. It was in an area of prairie where trees stepped aside to present a majestic view of the valley which curved around a bold mountain. The mountain in view had an exposed top of grey rock with streaks of snow painted down its side. All around, below, were thick congregations of pines, sharply pointing upward.

Alongside the trail, there was a rock boulder maybe fifteen feet high. Jonathan and I climbed up to the top where I was able to catch Jonathan, on camera, in a pensive pose with the mountain behind him.DSC05476

After our short break, we continued on our journey, climbing higher and higher, the backpack straps digging deeper and deeper into our shoulders, and then we reached our summit! We found ourselves in the most beautiful basin. The entire floor of this basin was covered in wildflower plants. They weren’t in bloom, but they filled the air with a sweet aroma. All around were the slopes of green wild grass growing up the sides of the basin. On these slopes were streams of water cascading down from ice melt. It was so fanciful, so perfect.  Places like this aren’t known to exist outside of fantasy. On the basin floor the streams of rushing water spread in all directions among the wild flower plants, creating a series of islands. This was all thousands of feet up in the mountains. It was a little bowl of paradise removed from the rest of the world, elevated up here, tucked away, hidden, and we were the only ones present. We had the whole basin to ourselves. And, although we were clearly exposed in the realm of nature, because we were down in a basin, it felt like were sheltered in this exclusive paradise.

Our destination to set up camp was over by a small collection of pine trees on the far end of the basin, to get there was a bit of a trick, because the streams of water which spread out on the basin floor did so in such a wild manner, and some of these streams were wide and forceful. We had to troubleshoot numerous times, finding our way on and off numerous prairie islands, backtracking when the streams were too wide for crossing.DSC05491

When we made it to the pine trees, there were mounds of snow protected by the shade. Among them were a few fallen trees creating places to sit down. Next to these were natural pads of pine needles and flat ground to pitch tents. Fittingly so, we set up camp. We placed our tents all relatively close to each other’s, next to the tall pines.  Our camp was near the far end of the basin where a beautiful waterfall, split as it fell, creating two side-by-side waterfalls, which crashed so elegantly down against rocks and into the the network of streams. At the base of the falls were a collection of shards of dark wet rocks that had crumbled down with the falling water.DSC05516

DSC05518Despite being out in the wild, I felt sheltered twofold. First, we were down in a basin with the sloping walls around us, placing us in our own little world. Secondly, we were in the fold of the small patch of forest with a strong sense of camp establishment. We had our little tent village, or the bedrooms as I liked to call them. Next to that was a mound of snow, were were had refrigeration- our natural kitchen. I had taken out my water bottles and stuck them in the snow.  Next to that, was a collection of stumps, fallen tree parts, and rock oddities, creating an area to sit down and have a fire- the natural living room, the common area. All of this was hidden and sheltered by the cover of the pines. Never before had nature seemed so accommodating. It was as if it was saying, welcome to my finest. Make yourself at home.

After we set up camp, we went around exploring our immediate surroundings, admiring the waterfalls, collecting wood for a fire. During all of this exploration, Jonathan was inside his tent taking a nap. He was tired from his extra hiking of having backtracked for his missing camera parts. Plus his recent sleep schedule was not his usual he had with the Air Force.

I could hardly believe I was here, that this was real, that this was where we would get to spend the night, a backpackers paradise, a deep cleansing oasis for the soul. And there was more to be seen than the wonders already set before us. Once Jonathan would awake from his nap, we would take an afternoon hike from camp up to the Ice Lakes.

Read the next entry “When Life’s Path is Frozen Over,” here: https://joshthehodge.wordpress.com/2018/03/10/when-lifes-path-is-frozen-over

Read the previous entry “Mesa Verde with My Cousins,” here:

https://joshthehodge.wordpress.com/2018/02/04/mesa-verde-with-my-cousins/

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Mesa Verde with My Cousins

The living room floor was covered in gear and supplies all laid out and organized in piles and distinct sections. We were prepping for our overnight backpacking journey up into the San Juan Mountains to camp in a valley by the Ice Lakes. We had to divy up supplies and see whose pack could carry which things. We hadn’t even begun our journey, but I was excited. The spirit of adventure was alive and thriving.

I had never backpacked overnight with anyone and here we were, this was actually going to happen! And for once, I didn’t have to take the lead. My cousin Paul had sought this trail and plan. He had seen it online while in Germany and had been waiting to do it next time he was in the U.S.. I was relieved to be a follower. All I needed to do was make sure I packed what I needed for the adventure. My aunt Mary, cousin Jonathan, cousin Paul and his wife Ines were all packing at the same time, asking each other questions, trading off supplies, helping each other come to decisions about what was best. I loaned Paul an inflatable pillow, and I volunteered to carry the majority of the water supply. Jonathan, volunteered his pack to carry our bear canister with most of our food supply. We weren’t sure if there were even bears in the mountains, but better safe than sorry. Food, however, wasn’t our strongest of priorities, but we packed what would sustain us. We had apples, peanut butter and jelly sandwiches, jerky, Clif bars, and trail mix. I had also tucked away in my backpack some electrolyte gummies. I had noticed how useful they had been on other hikes.

A couple of us had hiking backpacks, but some of the others had standard back-to-school type backpacks bulging with supplies. So we got creative, tying things to packs with ropes and miscellaneous straps. We didn’t have the most expensive backpacking gear, but we were going to make this work.

When we finished packing, I went out on the terrace of the abode-like apartment Airbnb we were staying in, and sat there with Paul and Ines. We were relaxing and snacking on some vegetables and cherries, enjoying the summer heat slowly fade in the late evening, and writing in the guest book for the Airbnb. The host lived in an apartment on the bottom floor of the building. I had never met her, but the others had been there for a couple days and apparently she had been very friendly and had even brought a homemade breakfast bread to them. I was able to sample it. It was delicious. Although I do not remember exactly what the note we wrote in her guest book was, I’m sure there was appreciation expressed for her bread.

Sometimes it’s the most simple things that stick out more apparent in our memories. Sitting here on this terrace with my cousins is just such a fond memory of mine. Three things about it made it special to me. First off, it was a conclusion of such a fine day. We had spent the day touring around Mesa Verde National Park. It was also the eve of a grand adventure into the San Juan Mountains, and it was also the joy and comfort of reconnecting and resting in the company of family after having been alone for weeks.

In the morning, we had arrived at Mesa Verde early, shortly after the park opened. We wanted to make sure we could secure tickets for a tour of the Cliff Palace. It was a success, and my Aunt Mary kindly purchased the tickets for all of us. I then made sure we all stopped to see the park film, because personally, we know, for me, a National Park visit is not complete without seeing the park film. After that, we went on a short hike up to the top of the mesa where we took some nice cousinly photos and looked down at the windy road we had ascended in the park.

Our tour of the Grand Palace went well. The tour took us down around and inside the famous rock houses that comes to most minds when Mesa Verde is mentioned. The large and intricate rock house city hidden under the overhang of the mesa was impressive. There were about fifteen of us on the tour.  We were guided and informed by a round native american park ranger, with a black braided ponytail sticking out behind his ranger hat. He carried with him a spray bottle, and along the tour he asked us tourists trivia questions. If any of us were correct we earned a spray from his bottle. It sounds silly, and I thought it was a little much at first, but the second time I answered a question correctly I gladly accepted a spray. The dry summer heat of southern Colorado is oppressive, any relief should always be accepted.

What’s most fascinating to me about Mesa Verde is how the inhabitants of this place seemingly suddenly disappeared. No one knows what happened to them. It’s believed that at its prime 22,000 people lived here. There is speculation that drought led them to other places where they assimilated into other native cultures. To me that doesn’t make sense. How could a civilization build an entire city like this and have the resolve to abandon it and move to another location? Furthermore how could there be no history of this migration and assimilation of one people group into another. Let’s imagine for a moment they migrated and into the  Navajo or Ute society. Wouldn’t their certainly be history, or at least legends, of such a large invasion of another people group. It doesn’t add up to me. These people literally disappeared from Mesa Verde, leaving no trace nor evidence, which leads me to certainly not yet believe but still entertain the thought of some sort of extraterrestrial intervention. Call me crazy, but it’s also the wild imagination I have that allows to me speculate and entertain the thought. It’s fun to conjure up your own theories to the matter.

Mesa Verde, unlike many National Parks, doesn’t have an abundance of recreational opportunities. There are not a lot of hiking trails, and the terrain is not terribly unique in my opinion. The main attraction are these rock houses, and they are justly deserve all the attention they get, but, in all my experiences, this part seems more like a National Historic Site. However, curious enough, how could it be a Historic Site, if we really don’t know that much about the people who lived here nor a timeline of their events. It could be something new: a National Mystery Park.

Leaving Mesa Verde, we headed into Durango, Colorado. A classic railroad town turned tourist hub. We walked around Main Avenue, which is lively with numerous restaurants, cafes, and shops. Most of the buildings were made of brick with arched windows, and tasteful facades that were true to the architecture of the buildings the represented. We were looking for a place to have a mid day meal.

The downtown had a classic small town feel to it. We got distracted from seeking food to looking at t-shirts. Aunt Mary wanted a Durango t-shirt, and so we went into a few t-shirt shops. Durango had been a special place for the her, because here is where they got on the historic Durango and Silverton Train and took it out to go white water rafting. Also Aunt Mary rarely gets to see her kids, as they all live so far away. I also purchased a t-shirt, because although I didn’t  get to see much of Durango, it is where I got reunited with my aunt and cousins. That held significance.

Our mid day meal proved to be tasty. We ate at a local brewery with very atypical and delicious burgers. I believed mine included avocado and mango. I remember my cousins had asked me how my brothers were doing. I told them about Timothy graduating from college and seeking his place in the world, and telling them about my older brother, Nathan. They hadn’t heard all the details of how Nathan’s chocolate company, Raaka Chocolate,  in Brooklyn had grown into a new factory and how my brother has really become a leader in the connoisseur chocolate world.

After our meal, we ran a few errands, popped into Dairy Queen for a treat, and headed back to the Airbnb, where we began our package and assembly party, getting ready for the adventure the following day. We also had to clean up the place, as we were checking out early the next morning and wouldn’t be back. The day ended with me sitting out on the terrace with my cousins munching on the fruit and vegetable tray we had put together. The day had been full and rich, and so I relaxed in the peace of a day well spent and the anticipation of the adventure ahead.

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Cousin Paul at the Cliff Palace

Read the next entry “Backpacking in the San Juan Mountains,” here: 

https://joshthehodge.wordpress.com/2018/03/10/backpacking-in-the-san-juan-mountains/

Read the previous entry “On the Great Sand Dunes,” here:

https://joshthehodge.wordpress.com/2018/01/27/on-the-great-sand-dunes/

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On the Great Sand Dunes

I could see them from seventy miles away, the Great Sand Dunes of Colorado. I was intrigued by this park well before arriving. It was another park I heard very little about. It was founded as a National Monument in 1932 by Herbert Hoover but gained the title National Park and Preserve in 2004 by an act of Congress. Sand dunes have always fascinated me, just because they are so different than anything I’m used to. This would be my fourth trip to desert sand dunes. The first was my harrowing plight for survival in a sand storm in Death Valley. The second was in Coral Pink Sand Dunes State Park in southern Utah, where I peacefully watched the sunset over the pink sand. My third experience was in Huacachina, Peru where I went sand-boarding with my brother and sister-in-law.

I had driven about five hours from Rocky Mountain National Park to Great Sand Dunes National Park and Preserve. It was now the middle of the day. Just like my arrival at all National Parks, I had picked out some accompanying music. Since I would be greeted with large sand dunes, it was time again for some more Star Wars music. This time it was Rey’s Theme from The Force Awakens. That song is heard when Rey is traveling about and sliding down the sand dunes on her home planet of Jakku. That’s the connection. That’s why it was chosen.

While I was approaching the park, I was again draining my battery from my Chromebook into my cell phone. I had tried plugging the charging cord from my phone directly into the USB port in the car. I thought it was charging, but all along it was wasting battery. I had on and off communication with my cousin, Jonathan, days prior. I knew him and other family were in Colorado, but I didn’t know their exact whereabouts nor plans. I was trying to connect with them. I assumed draining a Chromebook battery into a cell phone was not good for the life of the Chromebook battery, but I remembered the purpose of buying this Chromebook in the first place. I had purchased it super cheap the summer before, just outside of McFarland, California simply to back up photos from my travels. This device was meant to be an emergency travel device, and connecting with my cousins and aunt would be far more valuable than this piece of technology.  Arriving at Great Sand Dunes National Park and Preserve I still had no plans with my cousins. I didn’t know why reaching them was so difficult, but later I would learn why.

Great Sand Dunes National Park and Preserve is a very isolated park. I drove many miles in wide open space with very little civilization in sight. I had spoken to a Park Ranger about this park the following summer in Grand Teton National Park. He told me that this park was petitioned to transition from a National Monument to a National Park in efforts to increase tourism in the area.

When I arrived at the park my first stop was the campground. Plan A was to set up camp in the park campground. Plan B was to obtain a wilderness permit and camp out in the sand dunes. I was able to pursue Plan A, as there were still a few sites left. I thought arriving mid-day I would have no luck, but perhaps because this place was so very hot, maybe it wasn’t quite appealing for the general camper.

The campsite I chose faced the sand dunes but I could only see one large dune which served as a wall, hiding all the curves and waves of the other dunes behind it.DSC05324

I quickly set up Kelty, hopped in my car, and drove to the visitor center. Then I was off to the dunes. There are no trails on the dunes. There is simply a large parking lot and the great sand expanse. I applied sunscreen in plenty, filled up my hydration pack, and then needed to make a decision about footwear. I thought I had come up with a brilliant idea. I didn’t want to wear my boots because I thought they would be too heavy in the sand. I didn’t want to wear my tennis shoes, because I knew they would collect sand, especially since one of my shoes had caught on fire from campfire embers and had a nice hole burnt through on top. I was imagining the sand collecting in my shoes and making the trek uncomfortable. I knew I couldn’t go barefoot, because there were many warning signs about that. The park warned that in the summer afternoon the sand can reach temperatures up to 150 degrees. My genius idea was to go in socks.

A group of young adventurers from a vehicle next to me approached “Do you know what we should wear out there,” one of them asked as I was getting myself together.

“I am just going like this “I replied, standing shirtless in a pair of blue gym shorts and socks.

“Have you been here before.”

“No I haven’t” I replied

“What should we wear on our feet.”

“I don’t know, but I’m just wearing socks.”

“That’s a good idea,” he replied. I thought so to. I was glad to share my wisdom.

I began my trek barefoot, because at first there was a stretch of water trickling down from snow melt in the the mountains far away, that created a very shallow river on top the sand. Many people were congregated in this area, wading their feet. Children ran about splashing in the water and playing with the sand, as if at the beach.

After crossing the water, the incline began, and the expanse of dry hot desert dunes stretched on for miles. Socks were on, and traveling was great. Although the area of sand dunes was very expansive, it was not endless. In all directions were the tall rocky mountains of Colorado with pine trees and snow melt creating stripes down their sides. It was an interesting contrast to be in stifling hot sand dunes, looking around at mountains with snow. It was also interesting to think that just yesterday I was venturing through deep snow drifts on my attempt to make it to Mount Ida. Colorado is definitely a place of contrasts.

The sand dunes were relatively busy. People were following each others footprints to dune peaks. As typical, I wanted to to go farther than anyone else. So I trudged further and further up and down sand dunes, which is not easy. It takes maybe five times the effort than hiking on solid ground, because with each step your feet sink, and there is not stable ground to push yourself off of. Hiking downward is fun though, because you can descend inclines too steep and perilous for solid ground. On sand there’s no harm done when you fall, tumble, and slide. The sand is a giant encompassing cushion.

Here the color of the sand was uniformly a typical beige color. No plants grew. It was everything you might imagine sand dunes to be. Nothing out of the ordinary like pink sand, or black sand, or wild scary-looking desert shrubs. It was just a giant sand box of a place.

I had reached the highest dune I could see from when I began my quest. Standing on top, DSC05337I could see there were more mighty dunes in the distance, which were temping to pursue. But at the moment, my feet felt like they were on fire. Wearing socks was not a bright idea. Hot sand found its way into the socks over and over again, and was burning my feet. The hot sand mixed with coarse friction had also burned and ripped a giant hole in one of my socks. It appeared as if part of the sock had disintegrated.  I was about a mile and a half in, but my feet couldn’t endure anymore hiking, so I turned around. I wasn’t disappointed the least bit. I felt like I got a true Great Sand Dunes experience, greater than the rest of the tourists who gave up much sooner than me.

On the way back, I remember sitting down for a moment and looking around, at the sand, the mountains, and the people way below. I remember thinking, how in the world did I get here? Although I knew the answer, it was all sort of a marvel to me that I found myself in such a unique and different place than where I typically live my life. This sort of moment had happened more than once on my trip. In these pauses I try to take it all in. My life sort of replays summatively through my mind. It’s a summary of my weaknesses that I conjure up. I think back to when I was a teenager, being so depressed that I didn’t care to be alive anymore. At that time self-doubt and insecurity ripped me apart inside, and my world was so small. It didn’t extend beyond my own feelings.

I also think back to college when I was incredibly sick and weak, plagued with complicated Ulcerative Colitis and Pancreatitis. I grew tired climbing just one flight of stairs. Then I was hospitalized. I remember when I was able to walk again. I went out into the hospital courtyard with my walker, and just being able to stand on my feet, clinging onto my walker in that little landscape patch between cement buildings, was enough for me to find hope.

Now, here I was sitting on top of a giant sand dune, in the beating sun, thousands of miles removed from home, alive, strong, full of spirit. I’d come from the Sonoran Desert, seeing Saguaro cactus, through the Petrified Forest, across the plains of the Navajo Nation, around the canyons of Utah, up to aspen forests and alpine tundra of Colorado, and now here I was on a giant sand dune. I’d climbed higher than everyone else. They tired before me. I looked down at them as little ants. I realized my past was marked by canyons of illness that kept me trapped in low places, but now I was on a mountain, not by my own doing, but by the force of restoration and strength attributed to God.

In addition to marveling at how far I’d come, I was also struck in wonder by the diverse beauty of the United States. A few years ago I would have never even imagined that such a place as Great Sand Dunes National Park and Preserve existed in the United States. The more and more I travel to National Parks, the more I fall in love with this country. It is so full and rich in natural beauty. I remember, when I was younger I thought that the United States was just sort of uniform place with varying degrees in temperature. I couldn’t have been more wrong. The United States in amazingly rich in geological diversity. The National Park service does a great job at preserving all of these wonders and surprises.

After trying to take it all in, I began my hike down the sand dunes back to my car, tumbling and sliding down, despite my feet were in much pain. I had to arch my feet, trying to keep contact with sand limited to the tips of my toes and my heels. I had to pause at times and raise one foot up in the air to give it a chance to cool off, cooling down from the 150 degrees of the sand to the 105 degrees of the air. It was such a relief when I got back to the shallow river, and placed my feet in the ice melt water. I hoped the other young travelers from the parking lot hadn’t followed my example in footwear.DSC05389

I would have stayed longer in the river if it weren’t for some intrusive ranchera music blaring and ruining the serenity. A group of people had set up a canopy by the river where they had a picnic and enjoyed their choice music. I would have been happy listening to the water trickle and the wind wisp across the sand. It’s okay. I let it go. I wanted to go relax at my campsite and figure out a plan for the evening from there.

Back at my site I had received a text from my cousin, Jonathan. He and his family had been busy white water rafting most of the day, but now they were done and staying at an Airbnb in Durango, Colorado. I was welcomed to come spend the night there and visit Mesa Verde the following day, and then backpack overnight in the San Juan Mountains to the Ice Lakes the next day.

I plugged in the address into my GPS. They were about 160 miles away, which would equal roughly 3 hours of travel. I would arrive at night, but it wouldn’t be a problem. Sign me up!

I tore down my tent and threw my it back into my car. I found the campground host to inquire about a refund. She said refunds are never issued but I could sell my campsite. So I peddled around and sold my site to a couple at a slightly discounted price. Then I was out of there.

Durango, here I come! I was excited to see family. I had seen my cousin Jonathan the summer before when we adventured around Yosemite National Park together. It was a memorable time, and he was great company.  That was the last time I’d seen him. I would have liked to have seen him more, but I lived in Kentucky and he was stationed in California with the Airforce. As kids, we were decently close, although I would only  see him in the summer when my family would travel back to Princeton, Illinois. I thought we had a pretty good cousin bond, given our limited time together, but then the expanse of time grew larger between us and we grew up. When we met up in Yosemite, it had been years since I’d spent any time with him. I wasn’t sure how our interactions would go, but I couldn’t have asked for a better adventure buddy and a better time. Sure, we had grown and time brought change, but we were family and we were able to reconnect effortlessly and have a great time.

I also hadn’t seen my cousin Paul and his wife, Ines, in a few years. They had been living in Germany and their lives would be very different from what I last knew. And then there was my aunt Mary who lived in Illinois, whom I hadn’t seen in even a longer period of time. I knew she had endured heavy challenges and changes in life, and I admired her for her strength and raising my cousins, whom I respect so greatly, in the midst of it. I was so excited to see all of them and go on adventures together.

When I arrived, Paul and Mary were still awake. I spoke with them for a while, filling them in on my adventures and them filling me in on theirs. Their white water rafting trip was seriously legit. They rode some high class rapids and took the famous Durango and Silverton Railroad to their launching point. After visiting with them, I got laundry started, took a much needed shower, shaved, and retired to the living-room floor where they all had kindly left the comforters from their beds. I had a plush island of comfiness to myself, luxurious compared to the weeks of tent camping I had grown used to.

I was happy. Although I hadn’t seem these family members together in a long time, there was comfort in being with them. I had found a little piece of home way out in Colorado.

 

Read the next entry “Mesa Verde with My Cousins,” here:

https://joshthehodge.wordpress.com/2018/02/04/mesa-verde-with-my-cousins/

Read the previous entry “Chillin’ Like a Moose,” here:

https://joshthehodge.wordpress.com/2018/01/21/chillin-like-a-moose/

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Chillin’ Like a Moose

“Why, hello there,” I said to the moose who chose to make my acquaintance. He nonchalantly came by as if we were old friends. I sat at a picnic table off to the side of Coyote Valley. I heard a rustle in the brush behind me, and a moose emerged, ever so unphased.

I had read some notices about moose, how they can be dangerous, how they can charge. This moose didn’t seem the least bit aggressive. He was just out for an mid-day stroll, enjoying the park just like all the other visitors. I reached for my camera to take his picture, but the lighting just wasn’t enough. The pictures weren’t very satisfying. I put the camera away and took in this moment of an up close encounter with a moose.

I had been sitting there, relaxing, enjoying the beautiful view of the valley and writing in

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Coyote Valley

my notebook reflections on my experience in Canyonlands. I was writing about my emotional experience sitting on the canyon rim and the voice of God speaking to me ever so clearly. Tears of thankfulness and spiritual renewal fell down upon the journal. Then the moose arrived, and that particular emotional moment ended as I was faced with another of excitement I had seen photographers with huge lens trying to take photos of wildlife elsewhere in this park and others, but here I was feet away from a giant moose walking so slowly and carefree. I was putting forth no effort in being able to see the moose. It just paroosed right past me. Sometimes the greatest things just come so expectantly and nonchalantly.

After the moose passed by, I felt my visit to Coyote Valley had been fulfilled. I had finished writing the entry in my journal and was ready to move on and see what Grand Lake was all about.

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Cabin at Holzwarth Ranch

This morning was when I attempted but failed to reach the top of Mount Ida. That was followed by a stop at the Alpine Visitor center, where I had lunch in the cafeteria. I then had proceeded to Holzwarth Historic District. There a short trail leads through the meadow of the valley to the guest cabins from an old ranch of the early 1900s which is now preserved by the National Park Service. The cabins are furnished like they would have been back in the day. I couldn’t go inside but I peeked in all the windows and imagined what it would have been like to stay here years ago. This all led up to me finding my way to Coyote Valley where I had stopped to write and met the moose.

 

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Grand Lake while brushing my teeth

Now I was on my way to Grand Lake. Grand Lake is the name of the lake and town on the southwest side of the park. I had camped next to the lake on my second night of visiting the Rockies. Although the lake was beautiful to see at night, my campsite was right next to a road, and my neighbors seemingly enjoyed top forty hits instead of the sound and solitude of nature. That night I had left my campsite to sit in my car by the lake. There I brushed my teeth and enjoyed the beauty of the scene. I had collected enough water gallons that by now I had figured out the trick of brushing my teeth and getting ready for bed without visiting a restroom. I would spit water into its own gallon jug, and pour clean water from another jug into a used McDonalds cup to rinse my mouth. This sticks in my memory, because it was the most beautiful place I ever brushed my teeth. The lake, the mountains, the stars, the cool night sky. It was all so nice, and this is where I also first implemented my non bathroom brushing teeth procedures which would come in handy later in campgrounds without running water.

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Elk in Campsite

The next morning, at this campground, I packed the tent first thing. Although I had reserved and paid to stay here another night, I just couldn’t bear to wake up to Katy Perry roaring again. From here I had traveled into the park. I arrived by 7am, and was able to secure a site inside the park at Timber Creek. When I was setting up camp an elk walked right through the campsite next to mine and paused, just chillin like the moose. I was able to capture a few good pictures.

Setting up my tent, I couldn’t find the tent fly. I had concluded I must have left it at the campground by Grand Lake. I drove all the way back to check. I didn’t see it, nor had my pop-infused neighbors seen it. Come to find out, I set my tent up in Timber Creek right on top the fly. This all happened this morning, and by evening, here I was returning to Grand Lake once again. I wanted to check out the Grand Lake Lodge and have dinner downtown.

As I approached the driveway to Grand Lake lodge I wasn’t sure if it was acceptable for one such as I, lowly and penny pinching to visit such a wealthy establishment. And I didn’t know just how fancy the place was. I didn’t know if there would be some sort of snazzy valet parking. I didn’t know if I could freely walk into the lobby, but I thought, hey, why not find out? Plus it’s a Lodge, just the term evokes a sort of friendliness.

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View from Grand Lake Lodge

I had walked into the lodge at Bryce Canyon and had hung out quite a bit in their lobby, but the difference here was that this lodge was not technically in the National Park. It was right outside the park. I arrived and decided I would play it like I was a guest staying there. So I walked right in the lobby and out the backdoor where the patio and pool were. It was a stunning view with the pool right next to a beautiful lake with rocky mountains surrounding it. It wasn’t a very big pool but it was quite busy. I noticed signs for a wedding.

I went inside and paroosed around the gift shop. The lobby was made of all wood and was nice, but there was nothing too extraordinary about it. The view of the lake out the back was what made this place well worth the stop. Inside I decided to take a break and sit for a while on a swinging bench and free some memory on my camera card.

After resting at Grand Lake Lodge I proceeded into Grand Lake. There I at dinner at a place called Sagebrush I had read about on Tripadvisor. The food was delicious and the helping was heaping, even for the ravenous hiker I was. I had a BBQ half chicken, mashed potatoes, baked beans, and cornbread. The waitress was very friendly. She asked me many questions. Are you traveling alone? Where are you from? Where are you camping? She told me that she thought I was extremely “cool” and that she would love to be doing what I was doing. She gave me a recommendation on a free place to camp, but I didn’t know where she was referring to. She was very attentive and came over to talk to me frequently. I am not good at picking up signals but this was very evident. She wanted to make a connection, but for whatever reason she had not drawn my attention like the young lady at the Petrified Forest. So I let her go.

After my meal, I walked along the mainstreet in my flip flops. I let my feet breathe, and I just walked slowly and carefree- at ease, just like the moose, with no hurry. I looked in the shop windows and passed by many restaurants. It was touristy, but with a more tactful and homey feel than its rival, Estes Park, which was overly crowded and blaringly commercial for my liking.

Along my walk I stopped for some cherry chocolate chip  ice cream, and walked over to a park which was more like a city green. I noticed a gazebo in the middle and this reminded me of something. Presently, and for the past few days, I was in a power crisis. My cell phone battery had died, and I couldn’t charge it in the car, because I had blown a fuse. I didn’t know at the time that it was just a easy fix fuze issue.  I thought the charging outlet was broken entirely.  However, I had no way to charge my phone in the car. I had drained the battery from my Chromebook into my phone, yet the phone was still soon to lose power. I had been on a lookout for outlets, unfortunately no bathrooms in the National Park had outlets. Two days prior, when passing through a small town nearby, there was a local visitor center, where there was a private bathroom with an outlet. I took my time in that bathroom, really prolonging my number two, in order to try and pick up some charge for my phone.

Here, now in Grand Lake, I had noticed outlets inside the park gazebo. Perfect! I grabbed my chargers in my car and plugged in my devices in the Gazebo. There was a pair of young teenage lovers there as well, which didn’t even make things awkward. I didn’t care. I had important priorities. I needed power. There was also wifi! It was important for me to keep my phone on, because I was waiting for a call or text from my cousin Jonathan. There was talk of meeting up with him and some other family within the next few days. I was anxiously awaiting communication from him. It would determine my route of travel, and I didn’t want to miss the opportunity to connect.

After sitting in the park gazebo for a while, uploading some photos to facebook, and finishing my ice cream, I headed back into the National Park, back to my campsite for my final night in the Rocky Mountains. It had been a hodgepodge of a day, from packing up and setting up camp in the early a.m. with an elk by my side, to getting lost on route to Mount Ida and encountering Noah, making my way to the Holzwarth cabins and Coyote Valley where I met a moose, visiting Grand Lake Lodge, and then taking in downtown with delicious food. Tomorrow, the adventure would continue, looping around Colorado, heading down to Great Sand Dunes National Park and Preserve, and reconnecting with my cousins.

Read the next entry “On the Great Sand Dunes,” here:

https://joshthehodge.wordpress.com/2018/01/27/on-the-great-sand-dunes/

Read the previous entry “Lost on Mount Ida,” here: 

https://joshthehodge.wordpress.com/2018/01/18/lost-on-mount-ida-2/

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Lost on Mount Ida

“You’ll never make it,” she warned, returning to the parking lot from her intended hike. Never make it? Do you know who you are talking to? This is Josh Hodge, the one who has found his way out after falling into Bryce Canyon, the one who yesterday climbed a waterfall to Sky Pond. I will make it, I said in my mind. The goal was to hike to the top of Mount Ida, via the Continental Divide over the alpine tundra. I had seen pictures. It looked stunning. “The snow is too deep. You’ll lose the trail,” she continued.

I could have taken her warning to heart, but without a doubt, I knew I had to try for myself. I’ve lived enough life to know I can’t always trust what  people say. I mean, after all, people were saying the world would end with Y2K, Donald Trump would never become president, and Anakin Skywalker would bring balance to the force, yet here we are. And now try and tell me it’s impossible to summit Mount Ida. We’ll just see about that.

So I proceeded all geared up, and only after a few yards in, I began asking myself, now wait a minute…where is the trail? Snow completely covered everything, and here I was, basically at the beginning of the hike, questioning where the trail was. I could only see in retrospect that this would be foreshadowing of the entire experience. It was good, that to begin with, there were footprints to follow. Some hikers had taken a switchback approach, while others made steep shortcuts. Not knowing which was the proper route, I ended up taking both routes. The trail had left the small parking lot and ascended into the pine forest, and that is when the footprints disappeared. The snow was now up to my knees. Every once in a while I would sink down into the snow, but at other times my feet remained on top the frozen snowpack.

If I were a trail, which way would I go? That became my train of thought.  Following a switchback approach no longer seemed feasible, because the incline was too steep and there was no seemingly possible way to hike alongside the mountain. Only going vertical  seemed possible. And so I proceeded, only soon to find out that it might be a little too steep. If my feet would slip and lose grip of the snow, I would plummet down this mountainside, crashing back into the parking lot and maybe banging my head against rocks on the way down. I cautiously maneuvered my way up to a small patch of level ground. To the right there was more incline. In front of me there was even more, and to the left there were rocks and the sound of water rushing under the snow. Since I could hear water but not see it, it made me begin to question what other things were hidden under the snow. What sort of crevices, ravines, water sources and perils were hidden from sight? I trenched toward the rush of water, slowly, carefully placing my steps trying to assure myself the ground was stable under the snow. This was too much. This couldn’t be the way up, I thought. I had to have missed something. I concluded I needed to backtrack. The only problem was that going down, what I had ascended, was very intimidating.

My feet were able to grip their way up, but would obviously slide on their way down. I scanned the scene to feed it into my problem solving matrix. Here was the plan: If I fall, I fall, but I need to strategically plan my fall so that I can stop myself by clinging onto, or falling into,  trees along the way.

3-2-1 go!

I slid, falling down on my behind. And Thump! I hit tree one…and thump! tree two. Phew!  I made it to the level ground. My heart was racing, but a smile spread across my face. That was pretty fun. I was the ball traveling down the ping pong machine.

From another place of level ground, I made a decision to attempt the switchback method, so I snuggled up against the mountain and slowly shimmied my way against it. I was ascending, slowly but surely, leaving the bald landscape and returning back into the forest. The snow became increasingly deeper. I found myself trudging through snow up to my waist. I came to realize this was no switchback route, because there were no turns in direction of incline. My route was all in the same direction. I also came to realize the snow depth had grown much deeper than my waist. My weight sunk into the snow in such a way that the depth was measured by my waist but my feet were still standing on a great measure of compacted snow. This could be ten or twenty feet deep, I began to realize. Each step became a moment of uneasiness. How far would I sink in?  I feared sinking so deep that I would be stuck. I tried clinging onto the grey rock face to my left, but every so often I would lose grip and sink into the snow.

I was completely alone again. No one else had taken this route or made it this far. The parking lot was now far behind and below me. Everyone else had given up much sooner. So should have I, I thought. The prospect of falling deep into the snow, being stuck, and never having anyone find me was horrifying. I had to get out of here. I could see dirt and rock up ahead. I was presently just on top the middle of a giant snow drift.

When I reached ground again, I gave off a sigh of relief. It was like I had just been walking on top of clouds, knowing their consistency was not stable, knowing I could fall through at any moment. What a relief it was to be on solid ground I could stomp ground firmly under my boots. My legs felt wobbly and disoriented, sort of the feeling I get after swimming or riding a bicycle for an extended period of time. I looked ahead through the trees and there was a bald- a section of tundra free from snow, jutting off the side of the mountain. I proceeded to it, knowing here I could get a glimpse of the environment surrounding me and assess the situation.

I caught something colorful with my eyes. Resting against a tree on the edge of the bald was a small canister. This was exciting in two ways. First off, it was a sign that I wasn’t the only human to take this route. Someone else, at some point, had made it up here, so perhaps there was an easier way down. Secondly, It’s a geocache! I thought. Geocaching is an outdoor activity where one follows GPS coordinates to find hidden objects. Often times they are small canisters, containing little trinkets and a log book to sign off on your accomplishment. I had just began geocaching in the spring and had even done a bit with my parents at the beginning of the summer. How cool to accidentally stumble upon a geocache, I thought.

I raced over to the canister. It was made of pottery, and painted all over in bright colors. How fancy, I observed. I opened it, and to my dismay, it contained nothing but dirt. Befuddled, I put the lid back on it and examined the container. Among the colorful design were the white letters “Noah” painted. Under the name were two dates, the latter 1997, revealing to me that these were the ashes of a teenager named Noah. Feeling a bit uncomfortable like I had just desecrated something sacred, I set the canister down. Have his ashed been up here since 1997? No way! Are those ashes inside or just dirt? I didn’t want to think about it. I proceeded to the bald and took a few pictures. The mountainous landscape around me, suggested nothing about what my next move should be. I knew I did not want to attempt continuing up the mountain, but I did not want to attempt going back the way I came, and I had no idea in what direction my next move should be. I returned and sat down next to Noah. “Well…” I told him, “we are lost together,” but the stark contract was that I was alive and he wasn’t. It’s like in a movie when someone gets locked in a creepy dungeon cell, or stuck in a remote cave, and a skeleton sits there, as a warning that no one makes it out alive. That’s the type of feeling I entertained for a moment. However, I knew Noah didn’t die here. He was placed.

Then… What’s that sound? No, it wasn’t Noah. There were other hikers, coming from another direction. “Over here” I called out. I came upon a pair of hikers, also lost. They were two guys, maybe ten years older than myself, who had come up a different route but were now lost. They inquired about how I came up. I pointed, but told them I didn’t suggest it. One of them went over to observe my route and turned around. I told you so. We decided to divide and conquer in attempt to find a route.  We split up, each going in a different direction. None of use were successful and rejoined in the middle. “How about that way?” One guy pointed in a unpromising direction. I followed. I didn’t necessarily trust that these guys would bring us back to the parking lot, but I thought it’s better to be lost with other people, other alive people that is, than just with Noah.

We started descending in a valley on a very shallow covering of snow. While doing so we got to talking about hiking and National Parks and onto the topic of Yosemite and the hike I have not yet done up to the top of Half Dome. On our journey, we came to a barren area of lumps of wispy grass frozen and covered over with snow. Here we came upon another hiker. He became the leader of the pack, assuring us a way back to the parking lot. We all proceeded as a ragtag pack of hikers, who all got lost, who all got defeated by Mount Ida, but who were so appreciative of finding each other.

I sat back down in my car, relieved to no longer be lost, feeling the humbling effect of defeat and replaying the words of the sassy girl, “you’ll never make it.” She was right. I failed. However, what a story! Getting lost, finding Noah, teaming up as a pack of hikers to find our way out. It was a good experience. I was satisfied. Sometimes I feel like I have the  instinct to prove others wrong, and sometimes those instances of attempted proof are not always successful but are instead met with failure. But it’s in the failure that I learn humility, I discover my limits, and come away with stories to tell. So, tell me again I can’t do something. Watch me succeed or watch me fail. Either way, I come out better off.

Read the previous entry “Trekking to Sky Pond,” here: 

https://joshthehodge.wordpress.com/2018/01/08/trekking-to-sky-pond/

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Trekking to Sky Pond

I was at the trailhead by 6am. I wanted to make sure I could squeeze in as much adventure as I could in this day and also make sure I could find parking. I hadn’t yet put myself together, so, within my car, in the parking lot, I was changing out of my nighttime attire into layers for today’s hike. I strapped up my boots, filled up my hydration pack, gathered my essential snacks, and fired up my hiking GPS. The destination was Sky Pond. According to the map it was a 9.8 mile hike, nicely broken up into segments with Alberta Falls, Timberline Falls, Glass Lake, and Loch Lake all being points of interest along the way.

Unlike the hikes in Capitol Reef, where despite beauty and intrigue the miles stretched on forever, here the miles seem to pass by so quickly. It helped that I was full of energy and excitement, running nearly half of the distance. The weather was also amiable. The sky was perfectly rich blue, and the morning sun was bright but not painful. It shown enough to provide a warm touch on my face and arms, but in the shade, the air was cool and brisk. It was an ideal balance, making it prime hiking time. Surely all of nature’s different attractions and vistas along the way made the hike so enjoyable that it passed by quickly. Also, I had stopped to take a plethora of photos, and today’s views were the stuff of magazine, quintessential perfection.

The first stopping point on the hike was Alberta Falls. It was a small but energetic

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Alberta Falls

waterfall, or rather a series of waterfalls. The water rushed down in a white fury, leaping into a rapid stream around boulders adorned with lichen. Along the rocky borders of the river stood short pines. Their green complementary contrasted with the white rapids and the bright blue of the morning sky.

As the trail gradually ascended, it reached a point where I could see the Rocky Mountain giants through the tops of the pines. Their snow capped heights lookied so majestic. I soon came to the first lake- The Loch. The view was that of a magazine. Bold rocky tops swooped down and reached tall as they surrounded the lake. In crevices, all around, snow slid down the mountain heights. At the lower levels thins pines congregated quietly and uniformly. And then at the very bottom of view, the cold dark lake water lay with tiny little ripple-like waves from the gentle breeze.

It was a very serene place. Except for one other hiker, a middle-aged man, I was alone. I faced the lake, closed my eyes, and took in a deep breath of the cold refreshing mountain

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The Loch

air. Although often times I look for symbols in the landscape around me and the voice of God to meet me out in the quietude of the wild, other times, like this one, I’m just filled of thankfulness. I am speechless, and in my mind, I just keep saying “thank you, God.” I celebrate who God is,  one who shares his beautiful creativity with us. Physical beauty and the pinnacle of artistic expression is found in wild natural places like this.

As I had paused here to take in the beauty, the sun reached higher in the sky, and positioned itself in such a way to permit the mountainscape to reflect perfectly the lake. After my rejuvenating and invigorating pause, I continued on my hike to Sky Pond.

As I was reaching higher altitude, the landscape became covered in snow, and no thin layer of snow by any means, but feet of snow. Most of it was well compacted and icy, making it easy to stay on-top. I also took on the strategy of placing my feet in the footprints of hikers who had traveled on this days prior. Their footprints had turned into icy pads I could ground my feet on.

For a significant portion of trekking over snow, the land was level and tame, then I looked up to see a large incline completely covered in snow. To one side was a  steep rockDSC05120 wall- to the other, a jungle of rocks and Timberline Falls. The way up had to be between the two. The ground became steeper, and the snow, harder and icier. The only hint of a path was the footprints of others solidified in the snowmelt. The path curved around between the rock wall and the waterfall. The incline caused me to hunch over, leveraging my weight and using my hands on the ground for balance. I wasn’t just following footprints. I was carefully placing my feet into small icy steps created by the trod of those who came before.

My heart began to race  in nervousness. I was alone. I didn’t know if this hike was supposed to be accomplished in such conditions. I didn’t trust the terrain, and I didn’t want to end up in my National Parks Search and Rescue book I had told Dom about. If snow and ice had slipped out from under me, or I had lost my footing I would have gone tumbling and sliding down on the icy incline, and I wouldn’t have slide exactly the way I came up. I wouldn’t have slid down at such a curve. Instead  I would have slid straight down in the jungle of rocks and into the Timberline falls. It would not have been good. I would have ended up in the book for sure.  Times like these, though, call for the trekking pole. Thank goodness I had saved it from the depths of Bryce Canyon. It came in handy here, as an anchor to hold onto.

Eventually the icy footprints  I had been following diminished. They led me right into the upper portion of Timberline Falls. Hmm, am I supposed to climb up the waterfall? I thought. I observed my surroundings. There was absolutely no other way. I didn’t come all this way to give up now, I thought. Onward I must go!

There were parts of the waterful I would not set foot on, like the parts almost entirely covered in snow, where I could hear the rush of water but could not see it. However, the section I was taking on was the exposed and clearly frozen part of the falls, where icy rocks were jungled together, and the collection of rocks was enough and varied that there were places to put my feet and grab onto to hoist myself up. I had worked up a sweat on this journey, and the sun was getting warmer, so here I was maneuvering through a frozen waterfall in a tank top, but my hands were cold. I wanted gloves.

There were a couple movements I needed to make, to hoist myself up rocks, in which I had to stop myself from letting panic set in. Instead, I relied on my animal instincts of survival. I would climb up this waterfall! I would see Sky pond!

And I did! It was amazing. It was similar to the Loch, but at this altitude much less trees

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Sky Pond

remained, and snow and ice melt reflected so artistically on the lake. I climbed up a large nearby rock. From here I stood and looked behind at the beautiful valley I had traversed to get to this point. I could see the pine forests squeezed in between rock giants, one of the lakes already passed, and the other mountains in the distance. Up here the beauty was so transcending, the air so brisk, but the sun so warming. It was all so relaxing.  It put me at ease. I decided to place my backpack down as a pillow, put on my light hoodie, and lay down, hugging myself and deeply breathing the rich air. I didn’t think it was possible here but I fell asleep for a good twenty minutes. I awoke to greet the beautiful view with a renewed lens. I don’t ever recall, waking up to a sight so beautiful in my life. This was pure bliss. I sat there, quietly taking it all in.

Other hikers had arrived. It was a family-  mom, dad, brother, sister, and grandma. I had my moment and I decided I would venture back down on the trail, but I didn’t want to descend the ice waterfall and the slick snowscape. There must be another way, I thought. And so I started down the other side of Timberline Falls. After climbing and scrambling down immensities of rock, my efforts proved fruitless. I wouldn’t be able to get down successfully. The terrain became impossible, so I backtracked up to Sky Pond, and by this time the family who had also been enjoying the lake had begun their descent. Perfect, I thought. I will follow them, and see how its done. They carefully and successfully climbed down the waterfall and then, on their behinds, they went sliding down the snowscape. I was the caboose, trailing grandma, and I’m glad I was, because I thought to myself “If grandma can do this, then certainly I can.” And P.S. What a lady! Grandma and I got into a bit of small talk until I squatted down, and slid on my boots back to level ground. The family was very pleasant and clearly adventurous. On the way back we all helped each other out, finding the the best routes over the snow and through the woods. At this time of day, other hikers had engaged on this same adventure. We gave warnings of the challenges ahead as they inquired.

Eventually, about halfway in the return, I arrived back at the junction with the path that leads to Jewels Lake. I decided to take the side trip and check out Jewels lake. It was a crowded area, with a smaller, but nevertheless beautiful lake. Many tourists were taking photos of themselves and each other. I was clearly not the only hiker in a tank top and shorts, later I would find a photo of my mom’s dad, Grandpa Wolf, in the same location.

When I got back to my car, I checked my GPS, my 9.8 mile hike, had turned into around 14 miles. I added that to my hiking miles tally and was glad to bump my miles hiked up significantly. I was surprised at all the miles hiked, because it was still only early afternoon.

Immediately I was able to determine that this was my favorite hike to date. The amazing views, matched with the snowy challenges, and traversing a waterfall, just made it so unique and such an experience. To me, one of factors that makes a good hike, are the challenges it presents, whether climbing up a waterfall, descending by rope, crossing riverbeds, scrambling up rock faces. It’s the challenges that add a sense of accomplishment and create stories to be shared. This hike had topped my list. To me, in my limited experience, it was like I had summited Mount Everest. I had endured the snowy expanse, and all the perils, and lived to tell about it.

The rest of my day was largely uneventful. I had driven into Estes Park, which was very crowded, touristy, and untasteful for my liking. The only thing I left Estes Park with was a Subway sandwich. I returned to the the National Park, and sought out a picnic area to enjoy my sandwich in. I ended up just eating it in a parking lot at one of the overlooks in the alpine tundra, because the view was exceptionally breathtaking this time of day. A large capstone like cluster of clouds had congregate to cover the sun and darken the sky, but a break in the clouds allowed for light beams to shoot down and illuminate the snowy mountains.

I hadn’t thought about it in the moment, but now as I observe and reflect over the photographs, I draw parallels to the light beams shining down and illuminating the dark canyons in Canyonlands National Park. I wonder if, in this moment, God was trying to speak to me, telling me, I will take those canyons and turn them into mountains, taking the deep dark broken places of life and building them up to strong unwavering peaks.

Finding my way out of these canyons in life could be like this day’s hikes- a journey met with challenges, but the challenges not setbacks, and the challenges not hindering but rather spurring me on to overcome. As I embark on a quest to traverse and confront my canyons, I will approach them with the attitude of today’s hike. I didn’t come all this way to give up now. And when it’s complete, and my canyons are raised to mountains, I will reflect and gaze upon the new beauty, feeling the accomplishment and wonder. Greatest of all, I will have a new story to tell of the power and beauty of God.

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Read the previous entry “Starstruck at Rocky Mountain National Park,” here: https://joshthehodge.wordpress.com/2018/01/05/starstruck-in-rocky-mountain-national-park/

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Starstruck in Rocky Mountain National Park

“There’s a moose on the road!” the lady exclaimed.

There are no moose in the Rocky Mountains of Colorado, I thought.

“Just up ahead on the road you’ll see him.”

Poor lady, I thought. She doesn’t know the difference between a moose and an elk.

However, in my ignorance, I was wrong. She was right.

I had just gotten out of my car at the Kawuneeche Visitor Center in Rocky Mountain National Park. I had been arriving from the West via Grand Lake. She had been arriving from the East. Apparently there was a moose to look forward on the road up ahead, but I missed it and stopped in the visitor center. I didn’t bother asking about hiking trails. I had done my research online, and I knew what I wanted to do, and I was very excited about it. This was the Rocky Mountain National Park! It’s one of those rare places you hear so much about and can’t believe you are actually there when you arrive.

For me Rocky Mountain National Park stands in a prestige collection of National Parks. Some National Parks just certainly have more fame than others. This was one of the big ones. I’d file it along with Yosemite, Yellowstone, Glacier, and the Great Smoky Mountains. I had made sure before arriving I had planned out this visit. I needed to be assured that my Rocky Mountain experience would be full and complete. I didn’t want to miss anything. I felt my plan was solid. And here, meeting Rocky Mountain National Park was like meeting a very famous celebrity. There was sure excitement, a bit of nervousness, and the whole fascination from being starstruck.

Leaving the visitor center I made my way on the park road to the alpine summit. Along the way I made a few stops. I had gotten out of my car at Coyote Valley to gaze across the Kawuneeche Valley, where meadows of green grass were adorned with clusters of pine.  Along the valley edges, the terrain gradually rises and stretches. It grows with thickening dark pine forest until it can reach no further and mountaintops peak with bald rocky tops capped with snow.

Next to me, just meandering right through the meadow grass, at level with the rest of the ground, was the Colorado River. It looked like nothing but a stream. It was quiet, humble, unannounced- except for a small sign labeling it. I stood there in astonishment. This little river is the same one that carves the immense depth and grandeur of the Grand Canyon. Incredible! It all begins with ice melt from the Rocky Mountains. This took me back to my parallels I had made while in Canyonlands about how in our lives there can be canyons, dark areas of sin that can be corrosive. I had previously concluded that canyons sometimes are formed by something so small and seemingly insignificant and sometimes in our lives small it’s those little things which over time can eat away and corrupt a person. Here this was super evident. This dainty little stream, meandering so carefree through the sunny meadow, would become extremely powerful and corrosive, tearing away the land, creating profound depths and forming one of the greatest natural wonders of the world. This realization was a lot to take in.

I continued on my drive up Highway 34, Trail Ridge Road, through the pine forest. The drive took me over the Continental Divide and into altitudes well into the 11,000s which turned the landscape into alpine tundra. Here no trees nor shrubbery grew. The ground was either blanketed with short grass or covered in snow. I was up amongst mountain peaks, looking down into massive pine forests and valleys.

As I reached higher altitude, the road became something of a challenge, because it narrowed and hugged nothing. From the edge of the road dropped dramatic distances down into valleys. On top of it, it was a busy road, with cars in sight in front of me, cars lined up behind me, and cars passing by very closely on my left. I needed complete focus. I was uneasy, clenching my steering wheel tightly. This road just didn’t seem, by any means, safe. However I had no regrets. This was part of the adventure.

The climax to the drive was arriving at the Alpine Visitor Center. It was a break, a place to breathe at ease. It was also very busy. I drove around the parking lot several times, before I found an open space. On one side of the parking lot was a snowbank reaching well over 20 feet tall. Snow also blinded half of the windows at the visitor center. Getting outside my car, I noticed everything was kind of wet and dripping. It was a bright sunny June day, and temperatures had to be in the 60s. It was surprising to see that such an enormous snow bank still remained. It was telling of what the snowfall must have been like here in the winter.

From the parking lot I walked up a short trail to a mountain summit where many tourist stood around in shorts, taking photos of themselves and the great distances around them. I could feel the altitude. Breathing up here was not as effortless as it typically is in the world below. I then went into the visitor center which was joined with a large gift shop and a cafeteria. I checked things out briefly and then walked across the road to the Ute Trail. I began my first planned hike and started it off running. It was a great feeling to be running on top of a mountain, but snow was becoming deeper, slowing me down. Also, the temperature was dropping, out on the frozen expanse. I then realized with the snow how long this would take me, and how I could easily lose the trail. I reevaluated the situation and decided it was a little too ambitious for the moment. I returned to the Alpine Visitor Center. I found a Rocky Mountain National Park t-shirt tye dyed in the design of the Colorado flag. I bought along with it a hat and a book about the first 100 years of the National Park Service. Then it was off to find my campsite.

On the drive up in the alpine tundra I saw lot of wildlife. I saw mountain goats, elk, and many marmots. I had gotten off at one overlook, and a half dozen marmots were crawling and flopping around. This was my first ever time seeing a marmot. Frankly, I didn’t know what a marmot was but had just learned to identify one in the visitor center. To me, they look like a cross between a beaver and a woodchuck. In the eastern United States  we don’t have marmots, and it’s not a very popular animal, thus its not built into our vocabulary. However, I love marmots. They are such goofy-looking animals with a cute charm about them and a high pitch short squeal that sounds like a smoke alarm when the battery needs to be changed. At this particular overlook, the marmots came very close to the tourists, perhaps looking for handouts. It led way to me being able to get some great Marmot pictures, not only capturing the image of the animals, but the beautiful landscape in the background as well. I took one of the marmot stately posing on a rock with the most majestic valley and mountain view behind him. It was quite a photo.

I had descended the heights to Moraine Park Campground. My particular site, which I had reserved online, was one of my favorite campsites to date. From the car, I had to walk a short distance to the edge of the forest where the trees led out into a prairie with a view of a mountain on the other side. The campsite was very private. I felt as if I had the whole prairie and mountain view to myself. I set up camp and, while doing so, made acquaintance with my  neighboring campers. It was an elderly couple camping out of a small fancy lookin retro camper connected to their vehicle by a hitch. They were from California and cleary had experience doing this. They were preparing dinner out of a kitchenette accessible from the outside on the back of their camper. I inquired if there were bear boxes or any food storage instructions I needed to be aware of. They assured me that bears wouldn’t be a problem and nothing was out of the ordinary.

After camp was set up, I drove a short distance to the small Bierstadt Lake. I took a peaceful walk around it on the trail loop. I observed a few men fly fishing, sporting their rubber waders and standing in water up to their waists. The late evening sky was clear and crisp and I admired the pristine reflection, in deep rich colors, of the mountains in the lake.

I felt a feeling of accomplished arrival. I knew I would be staying here for a few days, so I felt like I had fully checked in. I was successfully making my acquaintance and was at ease, knowing this would be a good stay in Rocky Mountain National Park.

I returned to my camp, to my secluded little hideout at the prairie’s edge. I heated a can of  soup and cooked oatmeal over the fire, while writing a few postcards. I watched the moon and stars come out and enjoyed the heat and crackle of my campfire next to me. I then retired to my tent where I had a relaxing readathon, reading over the park newspaper, another chapter in my book about the West, and the intro to my new history book about the National Park Service. All during this my campfire continued to subtly crack and send flickering warm glows across the side of my tent. This was a quintessential end of a day and included what I love most about camping- the beauty, the quiet, the simple comfort of nature, and the prospect of adventure in the day to come.

Read the previous entry “Arriving at Black Canyon,” here: https://joshthehodge.wordpress.com/2017/12/31/arriving-at-black-canyon/

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Arriving at Black Canyon

Something was wrong, and I wasn’t quite sure what it was. I noticed the hubcaps on my rental car looked warped and out of place. I shouldn’t have gone on those rough roads in Saguaro and Capitol Reef, I thought. I’ve knocked the hubcaps out of place. This had been on my mind for a few days, but there was nothing I could do about it until now. I was finally amidst real civilization. I was in Grand Junction, Colorado with all the amenities of corporate America at my fingertips. I pulled up to a Walmart Auto Care Center to inquire about my hubcaps.

“Can you just have a look and tell me what’s wrong.” I guided the mechanic across the parking lot to my car.

“Oh, well they were put on wrong in the first place.” He informed. He peeled the hubcaps away from the rims of the wheels. “You should be fine now.” I was relieved that it was an easy fix and to see normal looking hubcaps again. I thanked the man and went into the Wal Mart to stock up on supplies. I felt I owed them a purchase. Just prior I had eaten at a Del Taco, one of my go-to places when venturing out West. Those in the rest of the country wouldn’t know that a Del Taco is like a step above a Taco Bell, with fresher ingredients and more healthy and filling options, with fresh avocados and tomatoes. I sound like an advertising spokesperson when I talk about them, but I’m just a fan.

Prior to rolling into Grand Junction I had left Manti Lasal National Forest in Utah and had driven about two hours from Utah into Colorado. I had stopped to visit Colorado National Monument which largely sits high on a mountainous plateau of red rock, looking down across flatlands of colorado. I didn’t have much time to spare, but checked out a few view spots, including the popular Coke Ovens, which are large rounded rock formations that stick up in a row in a canyon.DSC04842

In my planning of these summer adventures I recall being first confused about what a National Monument was. In my mind a monument was a statue or some mounted object in honor of a specific event. This is not what a National Monument is. Rather they are very similar to National Parks. Most National Parks first start out as National Monuments. I once inquired about this to a park ranger. He explained that really the only difference is that a National Monument is a park unit created by a president, and a National Park is a unit created by an act of Congress. The major difference between the two is that National Parks tend to gain more tourism simply because of the title.

Colorado National Monument was my first ever impression of Colorado. I had seen photos of the Rocky Mountains and the Maroon Bells of Colorado, and I was heavily influenced by the pine trees, grey rocks, and snow-capped mountains. I was surprised to find so much red rock in Colorado. However being here, it just made sense, given that it lies right next to the red rock wonderland of Utah. Despite seeing beautiful photos of Colorado online, I had read several negative things about Colorado in the wake of it being the first state to legalize recreational marijuana use. 

Despite my preconceived notions, Colorado was surprising all around. It borrows from that which is beautiful in Utah, but adds in its own unique natural beauty. It has more people that Utah, with more frequent towns and cities and less feelings of isolation, with a population at 5.54 million, nearly doubling that of Utah. After visiting Colorado National Monument I descended into the city of Grand Junction, Colorado, with population around 61,000. The part of the city I saw appeared new and clean with wide and smooth properly constructed streets.

After spending days in remote areas, I always become so very appreciative of places like Grand Junction. Although in the course of typical life-living, supermarkets, fast food, restaurants, air conditioning, and all the amenities of modern America, become common place and stale, when I’ve been isolated from them for days and I come upon them again, it is genuinely exciting. In the moment there seems to be nothing better than the feeling the brisk  air conditioning, to feel the refreshing coldness of ice in my beverage and an unlimited supply of cold water, to find food already prepared and available in bounty. The ease and accessibility of all of these goods is make possible by corporate America, which is something to be grateful for. These businesses, despite recently being attacked, labeled, and stereotyped, provide incredible service, and are only possible in this great nation. Getting away and spending time in nature helps me become more appreciative of the simplicities of modern life that we enjoy and are so fortunate to have in the United States.

After having the hubcaps on the car adjusted, dining at Del Taco, and restocking on food at Walmart, I was ready to proceed as planned with the day’s agenda- to shower and workout in Montrose, set up camp, and do a little sightseeing in Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park.

The drive took me through the small town of Delta, which to me felt like stepping back in time to an era I wasn’t even alive to witness. Although it was a quiet place, its mainstreet had many businesses, not for tourism, but simply placed ordinarily with vintage looking facades. There was a general store, a fabric store, a jewelry shop, a small grocery store, and numerous little Mexican restaurants. Here I felt far away. The uniqueness and old timey feel made me aware of the distance I had traveled.

I proceeded into Montrose where I purchased a day pass to the Gold’s Gym. I was surprised that such a large and nice gym was located in such a small town. As I was working out, doing a little bit of everything, I observed the locals around me, wondering what life might be like for them, and wondering what they might do for work. I’m sure I didn’t stick out and that I blended in as just another guy at the gym. As they were doing their typical gym routines, going about ordinary life, here I was on an epic adventure, just paused for a moment in this small seemingly insignificant town, which really drew me to it for only one reason- a gym with a shower. How peculiar my situation was but well planned and executed.

After my workout and shower, I dug into my food supply in my trunk and enjoyed a cinnamon raisin bagel and a Muscle Milk. I followed it up with a grilled chicken wrap at the nearby McDonalds. I sat there in McDonalds and for a moment, I did feel a bit of loneliness. I remembered the lost opportunity to connect with the other solo adventurer at the McDonalds in Moab. I saw a family on the other side of the restaurant eating together. I wasn’t in some major touristy spot where I could relate to the gamut of people around me on adventures. I was in a small town. People were about ordinary life. I thought of many times I had tried to form friendships and relationships with people, but how they always bailed out on me. I thought about how long I had waited for people to go on adventures with and the reason I found myself out here alone was because I became tired of waiting and decided to move on alone. I thought about how all the incredible memories made would be mine and no one else could recollect them with me. I also thought about how all efforts to connect with people were not completely lost. There were my postcard buddies I had been writing. My two postcard buddies were new people to me. I wondered would this effort to connect with them be fruitful or was it all done in vain?  

Then I came back to my senses. I didn’t come all the way out to Colorado to sit in a McDonalds and feel sorry for myself. To make it out here alone, seeing so many beautiful places, and finding my way so effortlessly was an accomplishment of independence and something to be proud of. I picked myself off of that plastic McDonalds booth, emptied my tray into the trash and then it was onward to Black Canyon of the Gunnison.

Approaching the park it was really hard to anticipate anything, because the terrain and the small town surrounding it were just so typical. But rather suddenly I came upon a giant break in the terrain, an enormous open wound in the landscape. A dark ominous gap dug sharply into the ground. I realized Colorado has surprises.

I have mixed feelings about this National Park. The canyon itself is surely impressive.  There is nothing I have seen quite like it. It is a very dramatic canyon with very sharp edges and rocks pointing and jutting up from it. The rock looked as if it had been violently chopped to carve the canyon. Standing by it, looking into it, I received the kind of awe I might encounter if i were to gaze upon the fictitious castle of a vile king. It is beautiful if you take the time to admire all its special peculiarities, but at first glance it looks rather uninviting. It’s not inspiring to me. It’s not like looking up at a mountain and losing yourself in the beauty of the moment. Black Canyon seems more like a warning from the forces of nature, a display of its violent ability. It’s dark, sharp, gaping, and hollow.

Prior to my trip I had entertained the idea of hiking down into the canyon to greet the Gunnison River, but I had read too many warnings of poison ivy overgrowth and how the descent is not much of a trail but a free for all which at parts require the hiker to lower himself by holding onto ropes and traversing the steep slopes of the canyon. I had not ruled out the possibility of descending into the canyon, but when I looked at it, I came to a conclusion. Sometimes I’ll see a mountain and have the nagging desire to summit it, like in Manti Lasal, but there was little to no desire to put myself at risk to place myself into a dark and ominous abyss.

“Will you take our photo,” a man asked me while I was looking over the edge into the depths.

“Sure,” I snapped the photo.

“Let me do the same for you,” the man offered to return the favor.

“No, it’s okay.” I replied.

“Oh come on, you need a picture,” He insisted. He struck me as very friendly. He took my photo, and it came out really well. I noticed his hat sported an Indiana school. I had to ask him where he came from. I met a couple from Indiana. When he asked me where I was from, I claimed Kentucky.

I proceeded further into the park to the visitor center. The park film was chock full of lots of interesting history about the canyon. This provided much more richness to my Black Canyon experience. I learned how the canyon was largely avoided until the 1900s. It’s river waters were so violent that wooden boats were turned to splinters by explorers. One successful survey of the canyon was done by a couple of men floating on a mattress.  Also the history of a railroad stretching along the sides of the canyon and the effort that went into constructing it was incredible.

History here is rich, but I was surprised to find that this place beared the title National Park. National Parks to me usually boast numerous features and plenty of opportunity for recreation. This park is small. There aren’t many trails, and the different features seem to be limited to view spots at just various angles of the same canyon and river. It seems unjust to place it in the same category as places like Yosemite or the Great Smoky Mountains or any National Park I had visited up until this point.

After squeezing in my stop to the visitor center before it closed, I backtracked a little bit on the road to set up camp at the South Rim campground. The terrain was part woodsy, part deserty. I wasn’t sure what animals might be around at night. Ever since I visited Sequoia National Park and was warned about black bears breaking into cars, I have become extra careful not to leave food items out in my vehicle. My campsite, which I had reserved online, was very private. The fire ring and picnic tables were in an open exposed area, but behind a row of tall shrubbery, was a place to set up the tent, completely shielded on all sides by growth. I quickly pitched True Blue and continued on the park drive, stopping at numerous viewpoints.

The two most notable view spots for me were Pulpit Rock, where long ago a minister
used this rock to deliver sermons to his congregation, also Painted Wall, which is a section of dark rock with bright white stripes running through it. This is another geological landmark I hadn’t noticed before, but afterward have seen it in ads and billboards. I had all intentions of being at Warner Point for sunset, seeing that right next to it on the map is labeled “Sunset View,” but again I was moments late for the sunset arriving at the point. It was okay. I was tired, and what I wanted most of all at this moment was a good night’s sleep.

I returned to my campsite in the dark, got ready for bed, and without reading, without thoughts to ponder, I flipped my switch and fell asleep.

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Read the next entry “Starstruck in Rocky Mountain National Park, ” here:

https://joshthehodge.wordpress.com/2018/01/05/starstruck-in-rocky-mountain-national-park/

Read the previous entry “Exploring the Uncharted,” here:

https://joshthehodge.wordpress.com/2017/12/27/exploring-the-uncharted/

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Exploring the Uncharted

“There are no maps of that area,” she informed. “I keep asking them to make maps, but I work for the government. We can never get anything done. It’s basically uncharted area, but you are welcome to explore.”

I had stopped by a small visitor center in Monticello, Utah next to the mountains of Manti Lasal National Forest. When I had camped up in the mountains two nights before, in the aspen forest, I had noticed some trails off to the side of the road, surely the visitor center would have some maps, I thought. I was wrong.

She kept repeating herself and was very apologetic. I was a little disappointed until the words “uncharted area” sunk into my mind, and I realized that this was a prime and rare opportunity to explore.

“Thank you,” I replied, walking outside with a skip in my step. I was on the brink of some serious adventure, about to take on uncharted area.

I drove up into the mountains, and pulled over and parked by the lake I had sat and had breakfast by the day before. There was a gate open to the gravel driveway, I made sure to park before passing through the gate, over to the side of the road. I was by no means in a parking spot, but I hadn’t seen a single vehicle up here. I felt pretty confident that my vehicle would be fine.

Unsure of what to expect, I applied mosquito repellent, filled up my hydration pack, and packed away a Clif bar and a long sleeve shirt. I turned on my GPS, walked down alongside the road about a fourth of a mile, and began one of my favorite hikes ever!

It started out as a wide unmarked trail, that had clearly been used for four-wheeler ATVs. The path at times dipped down into the ruts from the tires. Trees were sparse at first, and rock and grass dominated the landscape. The sun was bright and the path was dusty, painting into my memory a landscape of bright warm yellow. Then my memories turn into rich greens and the vibrant white of a young aspen forest. I was fully intrigued. I had been hiking in many types of forests before- in the pine forest of the northeast and the Sierra Nevadas of the West, the subtropical forest of Kentucky and Tennessee, down to the tropics of Florida, but I had never been in an aspen forest.

As silly as it may sound to those so accustomed to aspen, to me it was like stepping into another world. I thought I knew the forest, I thought I knew trees, but here I was with my concept of a forest challenged and expanded. It was an entirely different environment than anything I had ever seen before. I had camped in an aspen forest two nights prior, but it was different to be hiking out in one, noticing the forest floor fully green and covered with thick wispy grass. The branches of the aspen wait to sprout towards the top of the tree, leaving the hikers range of view immense, with a seemingly endless display of tree trunks congregated together.

There was something very calming, comforting, and strangely eerie about the aspen forest. Although I am a fan of all types of forest, typically the forests I venture into have a certain sense of expected mystery about them, because dark, large trunks, obtrusive branches, and wild undergrowth, keep secrets and stories hidden. Typically my view in the forest is limited, for there is so much space for things to be out of sight. But the aspen forest is different. It’s very open. The forest floor is one sheet of wispy grass, everything is visible around these slender trunks, and nothing is hidden and mysterious. Instead, bright and cheerful trunks invite your into the gathering, accepting you as one of the party, but after making acquaintance, and being invited inside, the trees at times can feel like pale white ghosts, only a mirage of a true forest. But then you stop and this is when you listen to their millions of small leaves rattle against each other and sing, telling you that they are alive.

This particular forest I was exploring, was young, so the Aspen’s weren’t very tall, giving me a larger than life feeling. I felt almost like a giant, trampling through a world of my own. I stopped here at the beginning of the aspen forest for maybe a good twenty minutes, taking photos with the trees.

There is something extremely pleasing and satisfying to me in discovering new terrains. Every different type of terrain I explore, challenges and expands my perception of the world. I recall my first experience in a forest of palm trees, walking out on desert plain for the first time, gazing through the ponderosa pines of Yosemite, and looking down into canyon depths. Every time I experience a new type of terrain, the richness of my life increases. It opens new pathways in my mind, to ponder and explore in memory and imagination. It shows me the diverse nature of the creativity of God, and I am simply swept away in blissful wonder and enjoyment.

After my impromptu photo shoot in the aspen forest, I returned to the trail  and decided to pick up the pace. The trail eventually came to a fork. It was my goal to summit the mountain before me. There was a sign, and I chose the direction with the name that sounded more like a summit of a mountain to me. I chose the path to my left. Clearly ATV time was over for this path was much smaller. I followed alongside the sound of a stream, which I never could see. It was down in a ravine.

DSC04786 copyShortly the forest changed. Tall older aspen mixed with robust ancient pines. Eventually the aspen were left behind and I was in the company of dark, rich, wet pines. The smell was sweet, tremendously pleasing. It smelled like fond memories of Christmas, and soon enough I found snow to accompany the sweet aroma. A mound of unmelted snow rose up mid trail. I was so excited to come upon it. So far on my trip I had been venturing in dry hot desert, even just this morning I was trekking along the red hot rock of Canyonlands National Park. Now here I was in a cool, aromatic pine forest, climbing up a pile of snow. I took snow into my hands and through icy snowballs into the forest.

I felt like I had jumped from summer into winter in the matter of an hour  – and not into any gloomy bitter wintertime, but a festive, picturesque, quintessential, Christmasland of sorts.

I checked my GPS. Time was ticking. I was five miles in. Time and distance had passed so quickly. The day was by no means young anymore, evening was upon me. Because I had no map, no insight to these trails, I was unsure where exactly this trail was leading. I couldn’t gage if it would lead to a summit or simply meander around the mountains. I also considered that everything I hiked had to be re-traced, and I did not want to be stuck in uncharted wilderness in the dark. I had a resolution. I would pick up the pace, run through the forest, and at every mile, I would reassess the situation.

My blissful run through the pine forest, took me to an alpine tundra. Trees were left behind, and tundra prairie spread across the mountain. The trail was but a narrow pathway making steep inclines up the mountain. Around me I looked down to dramatic valleys and ravines, with tall pines looking as tiny figures. The excitement propelled me forward at incredible pace.

Around me, every so often, Utah prairie dogs poked their heads out of their burrows as if to check to see if the world around them was still present. I ran past them leaving the trail behind me to summit the top of the world. Reaching the mountaintop was a grand climax as I could look out and see the cavities of canyonlands as a miniature little wonderland below. I was on the cool green tundra, looking down into the hot, dry, desert. The contrast was remarkable. A small cluster of pine trees huddled together just near the summit  pointing to the sky but also further drawing out the stark contrast of the pine forest and the beautiful canvas of Canyonlands in the background.

What made this moment all the more exciting and special to me is that I felt like I had truly discovered this place. There were no tourists, no signage, no constructed platforms nor overlooks. It was truly wild, and secret, and entirely a new experience for me.

It would have been enjoyable to have spent more time up here, looking around and taking in the scenery, maybe sitting down and enjoying a moment of quietude, but I knew there wasn’t much time to spare, since I was eight miles up a mountain and wanted to get back before dark.

I stood atop that mountain feeling powerful, invigorated, and accomplished. Then I turned around and ran back down. I was pleased. I had done it. When I set out on the path, I wasn’t sure where I was going, then as I ascended I knew I was getting closer to the top. Doubt had set in at a few times. I was wondering if I would be able to make it to the summit. But I did, and the view not only on the top, but on all my journey to the top, was rewarding.

This mountain and this Aspen forest continue to linger in my mind. It’s a place I couldn’t easily direct anyone to. It’s mine. It’s my secret. My cherished memory. I’ve tried looking at a map and identifying exactly what mountain I summited, but it’s unclear, so it remains only a place I can describe, only a place I understand, and my hike up that mountain was so full of adventure and wonder that it almost seems like a dream- a moment I escaped reality and pulled myself from the troubles of the world to look down on it with solitude and awe.

Hiking on trails alone, as on this one, has never given rise to feelings of loneliness. Although I’ve at times wanted to share beautiful vistas and moments with people, I’ve never been overwhelmed with loneliness. Instead, these moments of solitude remind me that in our lives we all walk a path no one else has trodden. No one will fully understand and no one can ever recount my journey but myself and the one who created me. For each life is uniquely different, made up of different experiences filtered through our own unique perceptions. I imagine that, even in companionship, complete and true understanding of my life, despite how close one may be, can never be reached, for we are limited by our human capabilities. But God knows truly what it is like to walk my path. He has been and is with me the entire way. So in these moments, when I hike alone, I find incredible intimacy with God and comfort in knowing that, even though no one else can fully understand the life I lead, my path in life is not walked alone. He knows it completely, before the dawn of my existence all the way to the end of my days, and He is with my every step in the present to assure me purpose and understanding. In that I find peace.

That evening I quickly ran eight miles down the mountain, speeding like Sonic the Hedgehog. Back at my car, I checked my gps to log the numbers of miles hiked. I was excited to add sixteen miles to the tally.  I then turned my car around and went back to Buckboard campground. Two days prior it was a strange forest to me, but now it was understood. I could find comfort in it, my secret apsen hideaway in the mountains. I crawled into True Blue, pulled out my book on the West, and shortly drifted to sleep.

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Read the previous entry “Arriving at Black Canyon,” here: https://joshthehodge.wordpress.com/2017/12/27/exploring-the-uncharted/

Read the previous entry “The Canyons in My Life,” here: https://joshthehodge.wordpress.com/2017/12/27/the-canyons-in-my-life/

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The Canyons in my Life

I looked down over an expanse and saw a whole different world. Perched on its edge, I knew that it would only be a matter of time before I would explore its grand expanse and profound depths. For now, the vista in front of me was so massive and colorful that my mind couldn’t take it all in, but I could admire the thousand shades of color, from rich red, to golden orange, pale brown, and deep purple. I entertained thoughts concerning the world below me, all the different nooks and crannies, all the different riverways, and the solitary towers of rock leaving islands in the sky. I could conjure up stories of adventure in the depths and speculate the history of people living in and passing through the narrows. Canyons are rich for the imagination and profound for inspiration.

At just around sunset I started this hike along the canyon rim at Canyonlands National Park. It had been a full day of hiking many trails and covering many miles. I felt accomplished, but I was getting tired and I wanted time to wind down, so just a leisurely stroll along the canyon rim at sunset seemed perfect.

When I go hiking I always end up taking away more than I can imagine, nothing physical, but rather inspiration, reassurance, and healing. Nature has a way of bringing about these things, and I’ve lived enough life to know that nature itself is not some mystical magical entity, but rather I believe nature is a creation designed purposefully to appeal to man and take him to depths of self-actualization and to intimacy with God.  Often times when I go hiking alone, I find it to be the perfect time to pause, reflect, and just be in the presence of God. Out in the solace of His natural beauty, it’s sometimes easier to hear God speak. I have seen this evident in my own life in many instances, God uses natural beauty to speak to me. The rocks, the trees, the towering mountains, and canyon depths are designed to have meaning. They are symbols.

As I was hiking along that rim, I was reflecting on my life, trying to pinpoint where exactly in my life I was feeling a corrosive emptiness and deficit, despite my fleeting feelings of accomplishment. I was pouring out to God this discontentment and feeling of inadequacy. This was something that had plagued me for a while. I felt I was just not doing something right, that I wasn’t living up to my potential, and that my character was lacking something.

While I was feeling these heavy emotions, the sun was hidden behind a cloud and therefore the countless canyons of Canyonlands were dark, mysterious, and seemingly bottomless. Lines separating the sections of the canyon were blurred from lack of sunlight. In this moment, suddenly it hit me, the realization that my own life has a number of canyons- deep and dark places where light just doesn’t shine, where the lines are blurred. I wasn’t sure exactly what those canyons were and what was the cause of them, but I knew there were dark places in my life where lines that separate truth from lies had been blurred, places that were corrosive that continued to grow deeper and darker. I asked God to show me the canyons in my life.

Canyons are very interesting things in relation to life. They are cavities in the earth’s surface caused by erosion over time. They are huge but can begin forming by something so simple as just a crack. Water eats away and erodes the trivial into something massive. However other times the impetus for formation is the land itself shifting as plates collide and move. And so the dark places in our lives can form very much like canyons. They may start as something trivial on the surface, a seemingly harmless sin, which over time can erode a person’s life. Sometimes those cracks we aren’t even responsible for, but they are caused by the abuse of others which start to erode our very being. Other times these canyons are formed by major life events, with loss or dramatic changes, when we feel the earth is pulled right out from under us.

As I was reflecting on canyons and their relevance to life, inspired by all the metaphors I could apply to life, suddenly the sun broke through an opening in the clouds. Beams of warm yellow light shot down and reached a number of canyons. The beams of light were situated at just the right angles that they illuminated the deepest canyons. And just like that a number of dark and dreary canyons became strikingly beautiful and awesome, no longer dreary and dark but rich in color and light.

At this moment God spoke to me, not in any audible voice but rather more directly, right to my soul. He told me that he can take the canyons in my life and turn them into something beautiful. Tears began to roll down my face in response to the beautiful parallels God was making and hearing His voice, which had seemed absent in my life for quite some time.

My first response was thankfulness, thankful that God met me here, literally out wandering in the desert. Secondly, I began searching my life for canyons. That evening I wasn’t sure of the canyons in my life, but I was ready to face them. I was inspired to seek change in my life and let God illuminate those dark places in my life.

Since this evening I have been able to identify some canyons in my life. I know one of my most profound canyons is selfishness, which is a complex and sprawling canyon.  I am still on a quest to find the rest of my canyons, confront them, and let God’s light transform them into something beautiful. I love how God is transformative and resourceful. He doesn’t let bad experiences and choices in life exist without redemption. God uses the dark places in our lives and illuminates them to bring him glory and fulfill his purpose.

If you are reading this I encourage you to take a hike out in nature and talk to God and ask him to show you your own canyons. I am uncertain of all my canyons, but I know God will lead me to them, and he can lead you to yours too.

I encourage you to try this whether you have faith in God or not. Just go out in nature and reflect on the places in life you need to work on to be a better you- the “canyons”. I pray that on your quest to find your canyons that you encounter God, because I’m telling you, there’s nothing more powerful.

Read the next entry “Exploring the Uncharted,” here: https://joshthehodge.wordpress.com/2017/12/27/exploring-the-uncharted/

Read the previous entry “Canyonlands and Dead Horses,” here: https://joshthehodge.wordpress.com/2017/12/27/canyonlands-and-dead-horses/

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